January 23, 2002

Winding Down

I have enjoyed the responses to my “novels” as they have been called. Thanks.

I just arrived back in Bangkok a couple hours ago. Actually I was a little stranded in Chiang Mai. All flights back to Bangkok were booked for a couple days, so I just made the most of it. I could have taken what they call the overnight train or a bus, but time is running short.

I wanted to fly to the islands in the south of Thailand for my last week, but word is that it is a zoo with tourists right now. Also all flights were booked for at least 5 days in advance.

I think my last letter I had arrived in Mae Hong Son after attempting the first driving. I really adjusted to driving on the left hand side pretty well. The only problem was they put the damn steering wheel on the wrong side. The turn signal is now on the right and the windshield wipers
the left.

After two days, these damn Thai drivers still don’t know that when my windshield wipers are going it means I am turning! I have also gone in the glove compartment to find something more times than I can count. Hey, I can’t let them think I still get in on the wrong side of the car.

Well part two of my plan was to complete the Mae Hong Son/ Chiang Mai loop. It is probably about 250 miles or so. This is what all the guidebooks suggest. What do they know?

I bought a map (logical move) and it showed another route, “a road less traveled” so to speak. I could save at least 75 miles and cut straight through the mountains. Sure there are some places the road ends and it becomes dirt, sure they recommend only 4wd in some parts, but I have my chipmunk 4wd Suzuki right? And I am sure you already know which one I chose.

OK, along the way I will see beautiful countryside, I will take the short cut to the highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Ithanon, and be in Chiang Mai by early afternoon. The guidebooks also recommend not traveling at night. Well I can add, “Do not travel dirt roads, especially when you have no idea what dirt road you are on, your gas gauge is approaching empty, and the sun is rapidly setting.”

The Thai government also must save a lot of money by not posting road signs. But this is an adventure after all right? Well anyway, I did see the mountains, I saw some roads I guarantee other tourists did not, I found gas (fortunately I was going downhill) and I found a major four lane highway. Well, almost.

Racing for Chiang Mai about 8:00PM I found that the four lane can instantly turn to dirt without warning, or switch to the other lane, construction zone for miles (warning signs? Who needs signs?). And all those motorcycles going every which way, including straight at you on the shoulder, look like a bunch of crazed fireflies at night.

My last day in Chiang Mai I did drive to (without getting lost) another elephant camp. This one was really great. They had at least 50 elephants including some only a few months old. They did a show but nothing that was degrading. In fact they showed their ability to move logs,etc, which was their initial purpose here. I’ll save the details for in person.

Anyway, two days to go. I have been thinking about what I like and will miss and what I will be glad to leave behind. The constant drone of the motorcycles will definitely not be missed. All in all, the positives far out weight the negatives.

I still cannot get over how friendly everyone is in this hectic life they maintain in the cities. They are always laughing and having fun. It is common for young men to “wai” each other when greeting. No one is trying to exert their manhood it seems. A near miss in traffic, you smile and bow a little and it is forgiven. The young women will be seen walking hand in hand or with their arms around each other, this is common.

Bargaining is a fun “game” for them. No one is insulted and when a price is agreed everyone seems happy. No request for service is too much. Jane left her camera in the rental car in Chiang Mai. A phone call and they brought it out to the airport for her, “no problem”. Of course Jane’s soft voice and smile is hard to resist.

She has been my chief souvenir bargaining tool. There is the “farang” negotiated price and then the Thai negotiated price. Much better. So, I don’t think I can get in too much trouble the next two days (famous last words). If all goes well I will be in DTW on the 27th. I must say I hate to leave. Most vacations one is glad to get home when it is over. Other than my friends and family I have not missed much of “back home”.

See you all soon.