January 2002

Week 2 Base Bangkok

I hope everyone is fine.  I have not heard anything negative from anyone so I assume all is well.  I am doing fine, in fact I am probably in better shape due to all the exercise and good food (stuff and things).

 

Monday, I believe (I do not have my notes with me and it is hard to keep track of days), I checked into the Ambassador hotel. In Bangkok.  It is quite nice, very large with a vast lobby, with cafes and many shops, etc.  It is about $25.00 a night.

 

I spent three days walking and riding the Bangkok Transit System (BTS).  I am in the Sukhumvit district, which is the main tourist district.  The streets here are lined with thousands of street vendors selling the fake Rolex watches, designer logo shirts, jewelry, t-shirts and any other products you can bootleg.  Luggage stores, and shops that offer 24 hour, custom made suits and shirts are the biggest resource in this area it seems.

 

At first you say, wow, I should stock up on genuine Polo, Gucci, Versace, Timberline, Nike, etc.  But then you see the quality and it is not such a good idea.  They are good to get by with to avoid laundry though, about $5.00 each.

 

On Monday evening I met with Jane.  Jane is a young lady I have been corresponding with and I also showed some of you her photo.  She is school assistant now and is formally from a Thai village.  She used to work in the fields as a child and has very interesting stories.  She worked as a domestic for a wealthy family in Bangkok before becoming a teacher, and has manners and sophistication that put mine to shame.  She is probably all of 4’10 and 90 lbs. at the most.  She is my guide and interpreter for this leg of the trip.  Don’t you just love my justifications?

 

I have found it incredibly helpful to have someone with you to ease the problems you run into.  There are many European men running around with Thai girls at their hip.  These are the very beautiful escorts and bar girls that one reads about.  They all look so happy and in lust.  It is interesting because everyone knows what the real deal is, and that it is short time and profitable for the ladies. 

 

I of course have a guide who is not a bar girl and I am a little uncomfortable when people look at us like it is just the typical American and his escort.  Jane is my friend who I have known, at least through the Internet, for a long time before coming and is not involved in the local sex scene.  How’s that for a rationalization?  I must admit that the cop in me keeps me cautious and somewhat suspect even though she is such a sweet person.

 

Wednesday I began my trip to the River Kwai.  By bus we went to the war cemetery that is the final resting place of many prisoners of war from the infamous Bridge on the River Kwai.  It is about 2.5 hours west of Bangkok.

 

From there we went to the war museum and then took a long tail boat to the actual bridge. We were able to walk on it.  Like so many things here for tourist, the lack of safety devices amazes me.  We actually walked the working railroad bridge stepping from tie to tie. If you fell between the ties you would receive a very “up close” view of the river.  We then boarded what used to be known as the “Death Train”.  This is an old locomotive with wooden passenger cars, and open windows, that actually follows the route of the World War II construction and prison train.  It is about a sixty-minute ride.  The dust just rolled through the open windows.  Of course, no air conditioning.  There was great scenery along the countryside. Now we wind up far up river in the mountains and again board a long tail boat. We are taken about 45 minutes up the Kwai River to a resort I had booked.  These boats can really haul ass. And we did in fact engage in a couple impromptu races with some other boats.  We passed floating homes and even a floating disco before winding our way into the jungle country.

 

Upon arriving at the lodge, I again found bamboo and stone huts.  These however were gorgeous.  King size beds, air conditioning, large stone showers and yes, TV, which I never used.  I found most of the tourists to be German or Dutch.  I have only today run into my first American.

 

The lodge itself is about 100’ over the river with lush tropical gardens and rainforest all around.  The other side of the river is a huge mountain wall probably about 500’ high.  In the distance are all mountains.

 

At the lodge, Jane instantly went into action and guaranteed the hut with the best view, lined up our itinerary, and had our key before the others were even able to claim their luggage.  Some thought it was cute, others showed a little resentment and stated to the effect that having my own private guide must be helpful.  I assured them it was.

 

Later, after having their drinks kept full, their plates served with food, and their questions translated, they all became appreciative of Jane.

 

That evening, after dark, we again boarded the long tail boat and went about 20 minutes up river to a Hmong village where we watched native dancing and singing. It is incredible to be in the middle of the mountains, cruising the River Kwai in almost total darkness. Our only light is from some spotlights on the boat.

 

The next morning we started out with our “whole body therapy session”.  I was rubbed in oil at the side of the swimming pool and then laid under palm leaves that were place over my entire body to create an instant steam bath.  This was followed by a face massage, foot massage, body massage, herbal rub and herbal sauna.  4.5 hours of pampering. I never thought I would allow someone to wash my ears.

 

Over the next two days we did the obligatory elephant ride through the forest.  A little touristy.  Then we went to what is called the Lawa Cave.  Stalagmites and stalactites, etc.  Again however you must walk through tiny natural openings and steps, no handrails, and you are able to climb and touch everything.  Our ecologists would go nuts. 

 

It is now Sunday in Bangkok.  It is amazing the transformation.  It is much less polluted today.  Only tourists roam the streets.  The booths are fewer in number and the constant drone of motor scooters is not so prevalent. Jane is off to her house to do laundry and I am just relaxing. Tomorrow we are flying to Chiang Mai.  This is the Northwest part of Thailand where I plan to do my “driving loop”.  I do not have a planned schedule for this part of the trip.  Actually I guess I haven’t had one for any other apart either.

 

I am still amazed by the demeanor and service abilities of the people here.  I have yet to see someone treated rudely or angry.  When ordering in any restaurant, one is always greeted by a female or male who gives you a “Wai”.  This is the gesture of placing their hands together and bowing their heads. They hover near by constantly waiting to serve you or remove your plates.  If ever one had to do more than glance in the direction of the waiter for them to come immediately I would be surprised.

 

I have been chastised, by both my friends, for over tipping.  Tipping is not expected but is given only when you receive exceptional service.  . With twenty bath, about $.60,  you are guaranteed some of the most beautiful smiles, a wai, and repeated “Thank you very much, sir”.  Incredible. Upon leaving the lodge on the River Kwai, I gave one of the tour guides a RPD shoulder patch.  He was thrilled and instantly had it pinned on his shirt sleave.

 

I am using a taxi very often.  I can go almost anywhere in the city for $2.00 or less.  I took about an hour trip and I think it cost about $5.00. 

 

Oh, wait, wait!!  I didn’t tell you about what I think was my first “sexual experience” in Thailand.  Jane insisted we go to the Bangkok elephant and crocodile show.  It was your typical, touristy, little zoo with caged animals and small show arenas.  We watched them “wrestle” what I believe are drugged crocodiles in a show, and then went for the elephant show.  They did some dancing and tricks and were somewhat cute.  This is not the major elephant rescue and reserve that I will later visit upcountry.

 

Anyway, it was narrated all in Thai.  When they laid mats on the arena floor and motioned for someone to come down I was volunteered.  A German man and I were the only ones to go down.  Jane told me it was for an elephant massage, I figured I could handle that.  I watched this huge elephant step up to the German man lying next to me and the elephant gently ran his trunk up and down the guy’s body.  OK, cool an elephant massage.

 

Well next this huge thing steps over the guy and places his front feet between us.  He starts to do the massage thing with me, and then suddenly raises his head and puts his trunk directly on my groin.  Much laughter, of course, from the arena.  Then this elephant steps completely over the two of us.  His front feet just inches from some very special parts of mine, walks backward over the top of me, and again returns his trunk to my groin area.  I again hear much laughter and do make out the announcer saying in broken English “Oh, she loves you big time”.  Well, the elephant steps back and forth over me probably four times, I think wearing out this routine.

 

I have had enough, and worse yet, I think the elephant has had enough as that foot keeps getting closer and closer.  Well that’s show biz and I think my only Bangkok sexual encounter.  As for any other encounters the constant presence of the combined street side  “VD/ Dental Clinic” keeps you reminded.

 

I am finding myself getting into the Bangkok habits.  I walked away from one of the numerous Internet shops earlier because they want 90 baht per hour.  Too much.  Internet is only 20-30 baht outside of Sukhumvit area.  When I stopped and thought how stupid that was, quibbling over $.30, I settled for 80 baht, about $1.90.  Hey, it all adds up right?  So tomorrow I am off on leg three.  Talk to you soon.