December 7, 2002

Chiang Mai-Hmong Village


The last two days definitely reminded me why I am here.  I decided I would do a little exploring on my own and headed up Doi (Mt.) Suthep.  It's the main mountain range that stands above Chiang Mai.  There is a temple about half way up that all the tourists go.  I know from a previous trip that the road goes beyond the temple, so what the heck.

 

As the road climbed it became more and more narrow and finally turned into what we would call a "2 track", with huge drop offs at some points, no guardrails, and the occasional area where part of the road had washed out and collapsed in the rainy season.  Oh yeah, this is still two way traffic.   Fortunately I didn't run into too much, but when I did it was rather startling and a very tight squeeze.  Some of the spots required 4 wheel drive.

 

Near the top it opened into a small area with a gorgeous view of the "other side of the mountain".  Above the clouds and gorgeous.  I could see what looked like a small village below and was determined to find a way down, which I did.  A little scary.  When I got there I found there was another "road" in that songtaews used to bring in the more adventurous tourist and locals to this Hmong Hilltribe village.  It was authentic, and actually the home of the villagers, but they had every souvenir hut and food booth that you would find in any tourist location.  At least here you could actually watch the woman sew some of the items. It is comical to see these poor village huts, but I found at least two satelite TV dishes and an array of pretty nice pickup trucks.

 

At one spot is a small waterfall.  There were three little girls dressed in traditional clothes (of course I found them the next day in jeans and t-shirts).  They were pretty demanding, "3 baht, 1 baht each for picture".   I only had a twenty baht note (50 cents), they said that would do.  We joked around and I got my photos.  It was near dark so I had to leave as I wasn't going to tackle the road after dark.

 

Today I decided to print the girls photos and go back and spend some time in the village and give them the photos.  As today was Saturday it was much more busy and I found a whole slew of kids.  There were new girls, even younger.  I would not pay them as I already had photos, so I went and intentionally just sat at a covered picnic table and played with my camera.   Soon they were all around me.  I let them play with the camera, but they would still try to hide when I took their picture .  The told me every English word they knew, I think.   We pointed to eyes, arms, legs.  They were fascinated by the falangs big nose and blue eyes (yes, I paid them anyway, 3 baht).

 

I found a group of boys whose angle (is 'whose' a word?) was to dive into the village reservoir for 1 baht coins that they wanted me to throw.  After tossing some coins, I walked on and found two kids, a boy who could not have been more than 4 or 5, and his younger sister.  I watched as they played next to their bamboo home at the edge of about a 40' drop off, about 50' from so the photos are a little grainy.  Then I noticed what they were doing;  the boy had a knife about 6" inches long and was cutting vegetables while the girl tried to help.   There were no adults around.  I find that the kids here are mostly left to learn on there own at young ages.  Things that would scare us to death are just part of the learning curve.

 

A man, who looked like a tourist with a camera, saw me with my photographs and asked if he could look.  He recognized one of the girls and found her for me.  They were thrilled with the picture.  Many other kids came and gathered around.  They wanted a pictue also, but how do I explain I have do go print them at home?  Another of the girls showed up and I gave 6 pictures to them to pass around.   I told them it would be "20 baht".  They looked shocked at first, then realizing that is how it works, they immediately handed me a 20 baht bill.  Of course I didn't take it, but we had a good laugh.   Then I remembered the man.  He had been there the day before also.  He also knew all the kids and seemed to remember me. Hmmmnnn,  an undercover village guardian?  I think so.

 

I spent a couple hours just wandering and shooting pictures.  I hated to leave but it was getting pretty hot and also late in the day.  So I decided to tackle the mountain road again.   As you start to head back down toward the temple the road is two lane and in pretty good shape.  Suddenly I see a falang girl, dressed in fatigues and a bandana and carrying what looks like a long bow wrapped in cloth, coming out of the forest toward the road and motions for me to stop.   What the heck.  I came to a stop and within a second this lanky, short haired blonde just jumped in the bed of the pickup.  Tapped on the roof, obviously going down, so on I went.

 

I glanced in the mirror and she had the most happy, contented smile as she removed the bandana and let her short hair blow, just taking in the mountain sites.   As we reached the temple area she just tapped on the roof again and I stopped.  As she passed the passenger door I rolled down the window.  She is from Illinois and her boyfriend is doing work in the National Park toward his Phd.   I told her she looked awful contented, she said so did I, we nodded in understanding and off we went in our own different ways.

 

This week is motorcycle week in Chiang Mai.  It is the first time I have seen a group of really big motorcycles.  I accidentally found where they were having one of their rallies on the way home so I stopped.   They had every imaginable type of Harley,  BMW, big Hondas and others.  Looked just like the U.S. There were an equal number of falangs and Asians.  Many Australians, some Germans and some Yanks.  Although the max size they are allowed to build here is 400c.c. they said you can get the big bikes if you know where to look.  BMW had a big factory display tent.  Most chose the typical H.D. black leather jacket biker look, but there were others.  I found one couple who are making a World Tour by bike.  Their bikes have luggage, extra gas, maps and stickers and autographs from all over the world, including Africa and Europe.  Pretty interesting.

 

They were having riding skill contests.  Oh, dear daughter, the temptation.  How many of those did we used to win?  I picked up some brochures, some price lists and bought a couple t-shirts.  "I really don't think I have not forgotten the skills I used to have.......Maybe if I sell the boat I could afford a new bike.......Travel and explore on two wheels again........My thoughts wandered as I walked back to the truck.   Ahhhhhhh........this air conditioning and massage seatback really feel good............Nahhhhhhhhhh...... Two wheel days are in the past.

 

Anyway, tonight I am going to a Muay Thai match.  Thai kickboxing.

 

Best to all.